Plaça de Sant Felip Neri
The most charming corner of the Gothic Quarter, hiding a tragic history
This square, nestled among the alleys of the Gothic Quarter, stirs emotions with its serene beauty and its history. Plaça de Sant Felip Neri is a hidden gem, difficult to access but rewarding to those who find it. Dominated by a central fountain and a Baroque church, the square is a living space where the stones tell their own stories.
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A historical memory space that preserves a vibrant tranquility
Plaça de Sant Felip Neri is one of the most special corners of the city—a haven of calm to escape the daily hustle. Located at the end of two alleys that lead nowhere but to the square itself, it stands out for its humility: in essence, it is a small, silent space, centered around a fountain and surrounded by Renaissance buildings, a school, and a Baroque church.
The square witnessed one of the most brutal massacres of the Spanish Civil War, leaving an indelible mark on the people of Barcelona and the walls of the church, where the damage from weapons can still be seen.
On January 30, 1938, Italian aviation supporting the Nationalist faction bombed Barcelona’s civilian population, with one bomb hitting the very site of the square, killing 42 people—most of them children who had taken refuge in the church’s basement. Additionally, the surrounding buildings were completely destroyed. It was city architect Adolf Florensa i Ferrer, responsible for the area’s reconstruction, who decided to redesign the space as a square. The scars left by the bomb can still be seen on the church façade.
A hidden corner not everyone knows about
To find the square, venture into the Gothic Quarter and reach Carrer de Sant Sever in the old Jewish quarter. From there, a narrow alley leads to a small, romantic square where, except during school arrival and departure times, only the gentle sound of water flowing from the octagonal fountain can be heard.
On one side, you’ll find the former guild houses of the Coppersmiths and Shoemakers, relocated from their original locations due to the opening of Via Laietana. The former was originally on Carrer de la Bòria, while the latter stood on Carrer de la Corríbia. On the other side stands the Baroque church of Sant Felip Neri, built between 1748 and 1752 as a place of worship for the Congregation of the Oratory, housed in the annexed building. The church, designed by Pere Bertran, features a single nave, side chapels, and a façade with an image of the saint, along with the visible scars of its tragic past.
How to get to Sant Felip Neri?
Take the Red Route of the Barcelona Bus Turístic to the Gothic Quarter stop, from where you can begin exploring the square.
For the curious
- The beautiful octagonal fountain, designed by Joaquim Ros de Ramis, was originally topped with a statuette of the saint, stolen a year after the square’s inauguration in 1963. It was replaced by another bronze statue by Josep Miret, which was also stolen. Since then, the pillar of the fountain has remained unadorned.
- The square is home to a fully functioning public school. The square features informational panels detailing the bombing.
